Color Dictionary

A

Acid

A solution which falls between 2 - 6 on the pH scale. (Also see pH.)

Activator

An additive used with a lightener to increase the speed of the decolorization process. Another word for booster, accelerator or catalyst.

Alkaline

Relating to a solution which falls between 8 - 12 on the pH scale. (Also see pH.)

Ammonia

A strong alkaline solution which enables an oxidative haircolor to decolorize hair and develop new color most effectively.

Arch Technique

This technique gives you the versatility to create your own color effects. The Arch section has a C shape of 1/8-inch to 1 1/2-inch width. Use a Ray or Ribbon technique back-to-back with the Arch design.

B

Base

In decolorization, the contributing pigment, the base of natural color, to which new color dyes will be added to create a specific haircolor tonality and intensity. (Also see color base.)

Beam Technique

This technique creates striking effects. Create a section in the shape of a triangular light beam, starting at the point of origin at a minimum 1/3-inch, and widen toward the base of the triangle. The Beam is a good way to draw attention to a particular feature of a hair style. The wider the triangle base, the more the eye is drawn to the desired area. The thickness of the hair section making up the Beam should be divided between 3 or 4 different colored foils to obtain better coverage

Bleach out

The process of decolorizing hair by altering and dispersing natural pigment.

Blonding

Decolorizing the hair to a blonde shade. This can be done with a high-lift blonde tint or by decolorizing and applying a blonde toner shade.

Booster

See activator.

Brassy

Unwanted gold, orange or red overtones.

C

Catalyst

See activator.

Certified color

Color additives certified by the Food and Drug Administration for use in cosmetics, such as haircolor. No Patch Test is required when only certified colors are used. They cannot be used in the area of the eyes or to color the eyelashes or eyebrows.

Color Base

A combination of dyes which result in specific haircoloring tones. A color base can be warm or cool in tonality, and vary in intensity, depending on the dyes used.

Color mixing

Mixing two shades of the same brand together for an intermediate color.

Contributing Pigment

The natural or de-colorized melanin (pigment) which contributes its color to the final color result when haircolor is applied. Rule: The contributing pigment + the new shade = the final result.

Cool

A term used to describe a shade containing neither red nor gold tones, also described as ash or drab.

Cortex

The largest, more important part of the hair shaft. It represents from 75 percent to 90 percent of the hair's total bulk and gives hair its strength, elasticity, texture and wave pattern. Pigment in the cortex determines hair's natural color.

Coverage

In haircoloring, a word used frequently when referring to coloring gray hair. The success of a haircoloring service is often related to the product's "ability" to completely "cover," or color, the gray hair.

Cuticle

The outer, transparent layer of the hair shaft. Its flat cells lie on the surface of the hair in overlapping formation. The cuticle protects the more fragile cortex portion of the hair shaft.

D

Decolorization

The process of lightening hair's natural pigment. This process is measured in "degrees" of color change. There are 10 degrees.

Degree

In decolorization, a measurement of lightness.

Deposit

In haircoloring, a word used to describe the entry and positioning of haircolor molecules in the hair.

Deposit haircolors

A term used to describe a haircolor product that deposits color in the hair, but does not decolorize (lighten) the natural haircolor pigment.

Depth

The lightness or darkness of a specific haircolor. Other words meaning depth of haircoloring are "value" and "level".

Developer

An oxidizing agent, most frequently hydrogen peroxide at an acidic pH, that is mixed with some oxidative haircolors, toners and lighteners to develop color, decolorize hair and create the porosity necessary for artificial haircoloring results.

Developer, 20-volume

The developer strength generally recommended for oxidative haircolors and lighteners. Provides the most controlled haircoloring results; i.e., a correct balance between hair decolorization and new color deposit over a specific time period.

Developer, 30-volume

A medium-strength developer.

Developer, 40-volume

A high-strength developer which should only be used in certain haircoloring circumstances by an experienced colorist.

Development time

The time needed to develop the final color or lightening result. Timing begins at completion of application.

Discoloration

An unwanted shade with an off-color or unnatural look.

Dispersing

Spreading out or apart. A word used to describe the action of melanin when it is altered by chemical lighteners.

Dominant Pigment

The natural pigment in the hair which is most prevalent.

Dot

This technique emphasizes the haircut design on specific sections. Use the tail of a comb to section a "dot" of hair 0.2-inch in diameter (one strand). When performing the Intriguing Technigue, use a Progressive Application technique to create a total of 7 dots on each side of the head.

Double process

In haircoloring, a term used to describe a haircoloring service which requires two separate procedures. First, the hair is decolorized to a specific degree. Second, new color is applied. (Also see decolorization; recoloring.)

Drab

A term used to describe a shade containing neither gold nor red tones. Also described as ash or cool.

Dull

A word used to describe hair, or haircolor, without shine, sufficient tonality or intensity. (Also see tone; intensity.)

Dyes

The chemical molecules that provide the primary, secondary and tertiary colors. Chemists combine these dyes with other chemicals to create haircoloring.

E

Emulsify

The best way to remove stains from skin. Remove a color product by adding a small amount of warm water to the color and rubbing gently and thoroughly before rinsing.

Enhance

In haircoloring, a word used to describe the beautifying of a client's current haircolor by altering or intensifying its tonality.

Equivalents

Colors that are close in depth and tone to one another.

Eumelanin

A type of melanin. The natural black pigment found predominantly in black, brown, and blonde hair. The darker the natural haircolor, the greater the amount of eumelanin and the denser its distribution throughout the hair shaft. The lighter the natural haircolor, the sparser the amount of eumelanin and the wider its distribution throughout the hair shaft.

F

Fading Haircolor

In haircoloring, a phrase usually used to describe hair with increasing amounts of gray. The increased gray makes pigmented hair appear "faded". Also used to describe haircolor tonality weakening over time, in-between retouches.

Filler

Product to temporarily provide fill for porous hair in conjunction with corrective color services.

Follicle

An indentation in the skin in which a hair is formed.

Formula

A combination of products mixed to create a specific haircoloring results.

Formulate

To create a haircoloring formula.

G

Gold bands

Brassy areas due to insufficient decolorizing.

Granule

A minute particle, containing melanin, in the hair.

Gray Hair

Hair with decreasing amounts of natural pigment. Hair with no natural pigment is actually white. The white hairs look gray when mingled with the still pigmented hair.

H

Hair fiber

The substance of hair.

Hair follicle

See follicle.

Hair lightener

A product used to decolorize hair to varying degrees.

Hair shaft

Visible part of each strand of hair. The shaft is made up of an outer layer called the cuticle, an innermost layer called the medulla and an in-between layer called the cortex. The cortex layer contains the natural melanin pigments and is where permanent color changes are made by penetrating tints, such as Miss Clairol, MC MAX, and Complements.

Hair, swelling of

Under alkaline conditions hair swells, allowing solutions, such as haircoloring, to enter the hair more easily. Haircolor, lighteners and permanent waving solutions are all alkaline (pH greater than 7). Also see pH.)

Haircolor

The natural or artificially created color of the human hair.

Haircolor creme

A type of haircolor which has a somewhat thickened consistency to prevent "running" and insure client comfort.

Haircolor, artificial

Haircolor created by the application of a haircoloring product to the hair.

Haircolor, custom

In haircoloring, a term used to describe the creation of a special formula for each client.

Haircolor, gel

A haircolor product with a very thick consistency, often applied with a brush.

Haircolor, liquid

A haircolor product with a very thin consistency.

Haircolor, natural

Haircolor created by nature from melanin: eumelanin, pheomelanin, or mixed melanins.

Haircolor, non-oxidative

Haircoloring products which wash out of the hair and are not "permanent".

Haircolor, oxidative

Haircolor products which react with a developer to deposit color dyes in the hair which are "permanent"; i.e., they fade very gradually over a long time.

Haircolor, permanent

See haircolor, oxidative.

Haircolor, salt-and-pepper

Natural haircolor which is a combination of white hair and pigmented hair. (Also see gray hair.)

Haircolor, semi-permanent

Non-oxidative haircolor that washes away after 4 to 8 shampoos.

Haircolor, temporary

Non-oxidative haircolor that coats the outside of the hair and shampoos off after 1 or 2 shampoos.

Henna

A vegetable colorant whose use can be traced back to antiquity. The active dyeing ingredient is lawsone, present in the leaves and stems of the henna plant, which grows in North Africa, Iran, Arabia, and India.

Highlighting

Decolorizing, brightening or coloring select strands of hair throughout the head.

Hue

The color of hair.

Hydrogen peroxide

A mildly acidic chemical which performs several important functions in haircoloring (Also see developer.)

I

Intense color

Very strong color.

Intensity

Used in haircoloring to describe the "strength" of the color's tonality (warmth or coolness). A tonality can be mild, medium or strong in intensity.

J

J-Words

There are no words starting with J

K

Keratin

The insoluble protein material which is the substance of hair and is formed within the follicle by some 20 amino acids. Keratin gives hair over 95 percent of its weight. Its yellowish, off-white color is thought to contribute to the natural haircolor called "blonde".

L

Level

See depth.

Level System

In haircoloring, a system colorists use to analyze, or "measure", the lightness or darkness of a haircolor.

Lightener

A product used to decolorize natural pigment. Sometimes referred to as "bleach".

Lightener, gel

A lightening product in gel form. Used for decolorization of hair. (Also see lightener.)

Lightener, off-the-scalp

A strong, fast-acting powder lightener used for special effects such as highlighting. (Also see lightener.)

Lightener, on-the-scalp

A liquid or gel lightening product used to decolorize hair's natural pigment. (Also see lightener.)

Lightener, powder

A lightening product in powder form. Used for off-the-scalp effects, such as frosting or highlighting. (Also see lightener.)

Lightening

The process of removing pigment from hair.

Line of demarcation

A streak caused by overlapping on previously tinted hair or a visible line between previously color-treated hair and a regrowth of natural haircolor.

Low molecular weight protein

Protein molecules that are split into smaller molecules that will be absorbed and give better conditioning results.

M

Medulla

Air-filled space within the hair running irregularly down the center of the cortex. It is not always present in every hair fiber.

Melanin

The natural color pigments in hair and skin.

Melanin granule

(See granule.)

Metallic dyes

Permanent color which contains metal salts, usually lead acetate.

Mixed melanins

A blend of eumelanin and pheomelanin in the same melanin granule.

Molecule

The smallest unit of a compound. A very small mass of matter.

N

Neutralize

In haircoloring, a word used to describe the "cooling down" or drabbing" of too warm a haircolor tone.

Non-Oxidative

Haircoloring products which do not have the ability to undergo the process of oxidation and, therefore, cannot decolorize hair's natural pigment. (Also see oxidation; haircolor, oxidative.)

O

Overlap

The condition caused when the lightener or tint runs down the hair strand during a retouch.

Overtone

The pigment that dominates in the hair, or in a color product.

Oxidation

The process of combining a substance with oxygen for the purpose of creating haircolor.

Oxidative

(See haircolor, oxidative.)

Oxygen

A colorless, odorless gas. When it combines with hydrogen, it can form water. (Also see oxidation.)

P

Partial color

Color applied on only one section of the hair, not the full head.

Patch test

A skin test given 48 hours before application of a haircoloring product to learn whether or not a client is allergic or hypersensitive to the product. This test is required for all haircolor, including oxidative (permanent) and non-oxidative (semi-permanent) colors, toners and rinses that do not use certified colors exclusively. Products which require this test are labeled accordingly.

Permanent haircolor

See haircolor, oxidative.

Persulfate

In haircoloring, a chemical ingredient, commonly used in activators, which increases the speed of the decolorization process. (Also see activator.)

pH

The degree of acidity or alkalinity of any water solution. The pH is a numerical scale from 0 (very acid) to 14 (very alkaline). Strong acid is pH 0 - 1.9. Acid is pH 2.0 to 5.9. Neutral is pH 6.0 to 7.9. Alkaline is pH 8.0 to 11.9. Strong Alkali is pH 12.1 to 14.

Pheomelanin

Red/yellow melanin found predominantly in red hair or brunette hair with warm tones.

Pigment particles

See granule.

Pigments

Haircolor, either natural or artificial.

Plastic applicator

Pliable squeeze bottle used for the application of haircolors, toners, lighteners and shampoos, eliminating the use of dish, comb and brush.

Plastic cap

Cap made of plastic, used in some semi-permanent coloring treatments to help hold in body heat to expedite color development. Plastic caps with perforations are also used for highlighting.

Polymer

These are large molecules which are deposited on hair from a solution. These molecules can provide the hair with conditioning and hair-holding properties.

Porosity

Hair's ability to absorb liquid water. To receive a haircoloring solution, hair must be somewhat porous. Over-porous hair will absorb too much haircoloring and color will be too dark and off-tone. Porosity also affects perming and relaxing results.

Powder bleach

A strong, fast-acting lightener used for special off-the-scalp lightening.

Pre-decolorizing

See pre-lightening.

Pre-lightening

The process of removing color from hair before applying a tint. Also used when decolorizing the hair before applying delicate blonde toner shades or a shade of tint that is vastly lighter than the client's own and cannot be achieved in a one-step process. Also called pre-decolorizing. (Also see decolorizing.)

Pre-softening

The application of a mild lightening solution for a short period of time in order to make hair more porous and less resistant to color.

Preliminary Patch Test

A small percentage of people may have an allergic reaction to haircolor, which can develop unexpectedly even when prior exposure was without problems. To determine whether your client may be allergic or hypersensitive, you must perform the Patch Test 48 hours before each and every haircolor application, when products require such a test.

How to test.

1. Using mild soap and water, wash an area about the size of a quarter on the inside of your client's elbow. Then dry.
2. Prepare a test solution by mixing a small amount of color with an equal amount of developer, if required. If a mixture of colors will be applied, the exact mixture plus developer, if required, should be used.
3. With an absorbent cotton-tipped applicator, apply the test solution to the area previously cleansed.
4. Permit the test area to dry. Leave uncovered and undisturbed for 48 hours. Then, examine the test area. If no reaction (i.e. skin eruption,burning,itching, redness, awareness of sensation upon touching,swelling or any other abnormal reaction), the formula used in the Patch Test may be mixed and applied immediately.

Preliminary Strand Test

The preliminary Strand Test will help you determine the following:

1. Whether proper color selection has been made.
2. The proper length of time to leave the haircolor on the hair.
3. Whether the hair has been previously treated with a permanent wave, relaxer, lightener, haircolor, metallic dye, compound henna or rinse. This lets you foresee any possibility of breakage or discoloration. When any of these conditions is evident, do not color without first reconditioning and then retesting the hair.
4. If the general condition of the hair is not good, the test will show where porous areas exist and enable you to foresee unsatisfactory results, such as uneven color take or dark ends.

How to test.

1. Mix small quantities of material to be used. If a mixture of colors is to be used, use the same proportions as will be in the final mixture.
2. Apply the mixture to a full strand of hair, from scalp to ends, allowing it to develop until the desired shade has been reached. Follow timing instructions for each product.
3. Check color development periodically. Thoroughly wet the test strand with a small amount of warm, soapy water. With a damp towel, wipe color off strand. Towel dry and examine results.

• If color result is very different than the shade desired,reformulate and do another Strand Test.
• Discoloration in the Strand Test may indicate undesirable porosity or the presence of foreign elements, and corrective steps may be necessary.

Primary colors

Yellow, red and blue. (Also see secondary colors; tertiary colors.)

Problem hair

Hair difficult to tint, lighten or permanent wave.

Progressive Application

Apply color at a distance from the scalp, at an angle, in a broken line or parallel to the hairline to create blended effects and camouflage new growth.

Q

Quaternary

A surfactant containing a positive charge which binds to the hair and neutralizes hair's negative charges; this reduces flyaway hair and thus makes hair more manageable, tangle free, shiny and easier to comb.

R

Range

In haircoloring, range refers to a broad spectrum of color, such as various shades of brown ranging from medium to light brown.

Ray

A straight slice of very fine (0.04-inch to 0.1-inch) section of hair. Use a tail comb to place the hair slice over the full width of the foil and apply either the color or the lightener formula. Depending on the shade used relative to the hair's overall color, you can create rays of light or shadow in the hair.

Recolorization

The process that adds new color to the hair following decolorization. The second step in double-process haircoloring.

Reconditioning

The process of improving the condition of the hair.

Resistance

The nature of hair that makes it difficult for solution to penetrate the hair strand.

Result

In cosmetology, the final effect created by a professional service.

Retouch

The process of coloring the new growth on colored or decolorized hair.

Retouch Application

1. Part hair in 4 equal sections.
2. Apply to dry hair, using applicator bottle or brush. Outline each section separately with the color formula.
3. Using the tip of applicator nozzle or brush handle, make 1/4 to 1/2-inch partings and generously apply the haircolor mixture to new growth area only.
   • If lightening the hair, start application where hair is the darkest.
   • If gray hair is present, begin application at the grayest portion of the hair.
4. Check color development periodically, using your haircolor record as a timing guide. Test strand and check color until desired shade is reached. Be sure to reapply haircolor to strand after each test.
5. If shaft hair needs refreshing, strand test for timing.
   • Dilute the balance of the haircolor formula with an equal part of shampoo.
   • Pour mixture through hair, including ends, and work gently into a soap cap. Test immediately for color development. When color is even, rinse thoroughly. If the ends need additional color, allow the mixture to develop for a few more minutes and test again until the desired shade is reached.
6. At the shampoo bowl, spray hair with a little warm water and work into a lather. Rinse thoroughly.
7. Shampoo. Rinse until the water runs clear.

Ribbon

A straight slice section of hair (1/8-inch to 3/8-inch). Use a tail comb to place the hair slice over the full width of the foil and apply either the color or the lightener formula. Depending on the shade used relative to the hair's overall color, you can create ribbons of light or shadow in the hair.

Rinse

A temporary haircoloring that coats the outside of the hair shaft and is removed after one or two shampoos. (Also see haircolor, temporary.)

S

Secondary colors

The colors created by combining the primary colors with one another: orange (yellow and red); violet (red and blue); green (yellow and blue). Also see primary colors; tertiary colors.)

Semi-permanent haircolor

See haircolor, non-oxidative.

Service

In cosmetology, a beauty process sold to clients of professional salons.

Seven stages of lightening

The traditional measurement of hair lightening, which stated that hair passed through 7 colors while in the process of decolorizing from black to pale blonde. (Also see decolorization; degree.)

Shade

In haircoloring, a small graduation of difference between one haircolor and another. (Also see depth.)

Skin test

See patch test.

Skin tone

The dominant color in the skin. Skin tone is important to consider when formulating haircolor.

Soap cap

The process of diluting a tint with shampoo, conditioner or water and working it through the head like a shampoo.

Special effect

In haircoloring, a technique which produces varied shades of haircolor on one head of hair. For example, highlighting, tone-on-tone, low-lighting.

Spectrum

A wide range of haircolors.

Spot lightening

Applying lightener only to dark areas to even out color.

Spot tinting

Applying tint (color) to areas insufficiently colored in order to produce even results throughout.

Spread

In haircoloring, the difference between a client's current haircolor and the color she wishes to be.

Stage

See seven stages of lightening.

Strand test

The process of checking a strand to determine progress during tinting or decolorizing. (Also see color preview strand test.)

Streaks

Dark or light areas of hair caused by improper application of haircolor or lightener. Also, an out-of-date word meaning "highlights".

Swatches

Strands of human or artificial hair used to demonstrate haircolors.

T

Temporary haircolor

See haircolor, temporary.

Tertiary colors

The colors created by combining the primary and secondary colors; yellow-green, yellow-orange, red-orange, red-violet, blue-green, blue-violet. (Also see primary colors; secondary colors.)

Texture

The "feel" of the hair: soft, harsh or wiry.

Tinsel Technique

Achieve color effects through the hair by doing a weaved slice with a tail-comb to obtain very fine sections. Apply color or lightener to these fine sections, using foils.

Tint

In haircoloring, a single-process oxidative haircolor. (Also see single-process; haircolor, oxidative.)

Tone

A word used to describe the warmth or coolness of a haircolor.

Tone-on-tone

A special effect which creates more than one related haircolor on one head of hair. (Also see special effect.)

Toner

A light and delicate haircolor for use after hair has been decolorized to a specific degree of contributing pigment. Toners are completely dependent on a preliminary lightening process that leaves hair light and porous enough for the toner to have effect.

Toner, non-oxidative

A toner which contains no ammonia and requires no developer. Shampoos out after 4-6 shampoos.

Toner, oxidative

A toner which contains ammonia and requires a developer. The color is "permanent" and fades very gradually over a long period of time.

Translucent

Clear material through which light passes.

U

U-Words

There are no words starting with U

V

Value

See depth.

Vegetable color

A natural coloring material, such as henna, that is derived from plants and is used to color hair.

Virgin Application

There are two methods of applying permanent haircoloring when coloring hair for the first time:

• Method A. Used when the color is close to or deeper than the Natural Level of haircolor.
• Method B. Used when the color is one Level or more lighterthan the Natural Level of haircolor.

METHOD A.

1. Part hair in 4 equal sections.
2. Apply to dry hair. Take 1/4 to 1/2-inch partings and beginapplication at root area, working color all the way down to theends immediately. Apply generously with applicator bottle orbrush making sure hair is thoroughly saturated.
   NOTE: If ends are porous or damaged, apply the mixture onlyto three-quarters of the strand first. Allow mixture to developfor about 15 minutes, then work through to the ends. Strandtest the ends to determine color development and timing.
3. Allow color to develop for a minimum of 15 minutes. DoStrand Test for color development. (Normal processing time isapproximately 30 minutes, but for maximum lightning andgray coverage, allow complete development time of 45minutes.)
4. When desired color is achieved, at the shampoo bowlspray hair with a little warm water and work into lather. Rinsethoroughly.
5. Shampoo. Rinse until water runs clear.

METHOD B.

1. Part hair in 4 equal sections.
2. Apply to dry hair, beginning one inch away from scalp,down to and including the ends. Use the applicator bottle orbrush. Application is made 1 inch away from scalp becausethe hair away from the root area receives less natural bodyheat and will take a little longer to decolorize.
3. Allow color to develop for a minimum of 15 minutes. Checkstrand for color development.
4. Continue checking until hair is decolorized half as much asdesired.
5. Mix a fresh haircolor formula and apply to root area makingcertain that hair shafts and ends are thoroughly re-saturated.
6. After 15 minutes, check a strand for color development.(Normal processing time is approximately 30 minutes, but formaximum lightening and gray coverage allow completedevelopment time of 45 minutes.) Leave color on hair untilcolor is uniform from roots to ends.
7. At shampoo bowl, spray hair with a little warm water andwork into lather. Rinse thoroughly.
8. Shampoo. Rinse until water runs clear.

NOTE FOR COLORISTS USING METHOD B: If you are an experienced colorist, you may wish to use 30- or40-volume developer in the formula for use on the shaft andends. When application to shaft and ends is complete,immediately mix a fresh formula using 10- or 20-volumedeveloper and apply to root area.

For longer hair, use cotton strips to protect the root area whilecolor is applied to shaft and ends.

Virgin hair

Hair not previously treated with haircolors, lighteners, permanent waves or chemical straighteners.

Volume

A measurement of peroxide strength. Twenty volume is equal to 6 percent, for example.

W

Warm

A term used to describe a color containing red or gold tones.

X

X-Words

There are no words starting with X

y

Y-Words

There are no words starting with Y

Z

Z-Words

There are no words starting with Z