Conditioners: Magic Potion or Miracle Cure?
VOLUME 5
It's almost like magic. You wash a client's hair, it's rough and tangled. But you place the magic potion on the hair, work it in, rinse, and abracadabra, the hair is instantly smooth and soft.
The magic potion? We 're talking about hair conditioners. But how does a conditioner work? Is it really a magic cure for damaged hair? Or just a temporary fix?
Conditioners deposit ingredients on the hair that make up for the loss of natural lubrication, reduce fly-aways by neutralizing static charge, detangle snarled hair and leave hair soft and shiny.
It may seem like a miracle cure, but even the best conditioner doesn't "heal" hair. Hair is not a living substance, and once damaged, cannot be repaired. Conditioners provide a temporary remedy for hair problems.
When hair is damaged, the cuticle becomes rough, making the hair dull and easily tangled. Conditioning agents help flatten the cuticle, and smooth the hair. This allows the hair to reflect more light, which makes it shine. In addition, the hair also feels smooth, which reduces friction, and keeps the individual hairs from tangling with each other.
Conditioners contain many ingredients, which work on hair in a number of ways. Sometimes these ingredients may seem confusing or alarming to clients.
Many stylists comment their clients often question them about ingredients they see listed in hair care products. Clients often become alarmed when they see alcohol in a product they use on their hair.
It is important for you to be the expert, and have the knowledge to explain to them what these ingredients are, and what they do. As a stylist, your clients will look to you for expert advice. Again, you may find a client reads the word "alcohol" on the back of a bottle of conditioner, and become concerned because they associate it with liquid alcohol, which they think is harsh. As an educated stylist, you can provide good information, and share your expertise, by explaining the real story behind this, and other confusing ingredients and product information.
CONDITIONERS CONTAIN A VARIETY OF INGREDIENTS, INCLUDING:
AMINES/QUATS - Make hair easier to comb and control static. Quats have a positive charge, which attracts it to the hair (which is negatively charged), giving it a silky feel when wet, and making it feel smooth and soft when dry.
DIMETHICONES - Give extreme softness to the feel of hair, without weighing it down. Makes hair easier to comb after it's dry. Sometimes, a client may ask you about a conditioner containing silicone. Dimethicone is a form of silicone, but it does not bond with the hair shaft and weigh hair down. Dimethicones provide manageability, body and shine, without buildup.
FATTY ALCHOHOLS AND ACIDS - These ingredients may sound harsh, but are actually gentle ingredients that give hair a smooth feel when its dry and make it easier to comb. Fatty alcohols are creamy in texture and help retain moisture, making hair and skin feel soft and silky.
Conditioner use and intensity should always be customized for each individual client, based on their hair type and style. Conditioners should be used sparingly, and only when necessary for clients with fine, thin hair. However, a heavier conditioner may be needed for thick or curly hair. In these cases, a conditioner can often be used as a leave-in product to help control curl and waves.
Some clients may be concerned that conditioner will make their hair "too soft" or "weigh it down." However, the right conditioner for that client should provide the needed result - great looking, well conditioned hair.
